Growing up as a kid, I have to admit I did not like turnips, and I don’t think my parents did either, because we rarely ate them. When we did they were generally served as mashed turnips, with some butter, salt and/or brown sugar to make them palatable, usually during some large feast like Thanksgiving. Perhaps it was a reminder of thanks for the days when the hardy turnip was one of the few vegetables that might survive the winter, and it made the difference between starving slowly or flourishing. Not till I grew up did I begin to appreciate the lowly turnip, but it did require learning some new recipes. The other thing that has happened since those days long ago, is the turnip has gone through some rigorous selective breeding programs since the ’50, and this has resulted in a much sweeter and tastier turnip today. The old world turnip or swede was generally grown as part of a crop rotation of wheat, oats, clover and turnips, with the turnips being used mainly as foder for a grazing herd of animals. Now the turnip is used by chefs around the world and is recognized as a nutritious and important food crop.

How to Grow Gourmet Turnips

Turnips are in the mustard family (Brassicaceae) and are related to radishes, rutabaga, cabbage and cauliflower.
They can be grown all season but grow best in cool, moist, weather, so plant in early spring or August to September. The tastiest turnips are the ones that grow fast in the cool weather and are harvested before the roots get too large. It only takes about 40 to 60 days to grow a crop of turnips, depending on variety and size at harvest. One of my favourite turnips is a miniature turnip called Tokyo Cross. It is harvested at about 2 to 3 inches diameter and only takes about 35 to 40 days to grow.

They like sandy, mellow soils that drain well. Avoid heavy clay.
For an early crop they can be grown as transplants and set out in the garden once they are in the true two to four leaf stage.
Incorporate some mature compost to the garden beds a month or two before planting, or use a general organic fertilizer at the time of planting.

Space according to the size you plan to harvest. There are several tasty minature turnips that are best harvested at about two or three inches diameter, but if you are planning to grow some big guys, thin them out to make room for the roots to develop.
I plant the seeds about two seeds to an inch, then I thin accordingly. Space the rows about about 6 inches apart. 4 or 5 rows to a bed.  Plant the seed  about ¾ inch deep. You can grow about 125lb of turnips in a 25ft row that is 2ft wide.

Irrigating Your Turnips

The trick to growing beautiful turnips is in the irrigation. Light consistent application of water will help to grow plump turnips. If the turnips are allowed to dry out, the roots may crack. This is why a sandy soil is best. A sandy soil has good drainage and can accommodate the frequent irrigation.
It is important to remember the words “light irrigation”. Ensure the turnips are not over watered. Over watering can result in the leaching of valuable nutrients below the root zone, and promote fungal disease. Run the irrigation until the root zone is wetted out, then stop.

Pests

I have only experienced significant damage from the root maggots. Aphid damage on the leaves can occur, but it has always been minor. Up in the Peace River and in the interior of BC they can have problems with the Red Turnip Beetle. The larvae feeds on the leaves. The Cabbage Root Maggot is generally the worst pest because it feeds on the turnip root.
I do not recommend any pesticides for a backyard garden because it kills off everyone, good, bad and indifferent. Some wise man once said that if you kill off the natural enemies of the pests, you inherit their work.
Use floating row covers for your turnips if you want to keep pests off. The cabbage fly is buzzing around in the early spring, laying eggs. On the coast that may be late April, early May.  Get the floating row cover in place to physically prevent the fly from getting to your turnips. Unfortunately this fly has multiple generations each year, so year round vigilance is required.

Controlling Disease on Turnips

Some diseases are exasperated when there is a nutrient deficiency in the soil. Boron is a common micronutrient deficiency and can contribute to Brown Heart, which appears as water soaked areas that turn brown. Apply a dilute solution of Borax on the soil prior to planting to address any boron deficiency. One teaspoon in a gallon of water applied to 50 ft2. Do not over apply, as Boron can become toxic.

Harvest the Leaves and the Roots

Many people enjoy cooking up the leaves as much as the root of the turnip. The sweetest tasting leaves are only 4 to 6 inches in length. If you are growing for the leaves, chose a variety that is described as good for leaf or greens production. Plant the seed densely and thin it out to one plant every 2 to 3 inches. When harvesting, only take a few leaves from each plant, and retain the inner leaves for a future harvest.

If you want to grow some nice turnip roots, thin to ensure there is adequate space for the roots to develop. When turnips are allowed to grow big, they become less sweet and tender. Also, the longer the root is in the ground the more chance of insect damage. Harvest the roots when they are about two to three inches in diameter for the best taste.

Cool the newly harvested crop immediately. The ideal storage temperature for turnips is 0 degrees C. with a 90 – 95 % humidity.

The turnip can be cooked in a variety of ways. You can mash them up with potatoes and serve with a little butter. Wrap them in onions and leaves and roast them. Pop a few turnips into the pot when you bake the next turkey or try cooking up the greens with a little bacon. Turnips are in the same family as broccoli and cauliflower, providing a good source of fiber, vitamin C, vitamin B6, folate, calcium, potassium and copper.

Turnips are an easy crop to grow and will reward the gardener with an abundant yield of a nutritious crop, so get out in the garden and start planting.